There is a rose in Spanish Harlem
A red rose up in Spanish Harlem
It is a special one, it's never seen the sun
It only comes out when the moon is on the run
And all the stars are gleaming
It's growing in the street right up through the concrete
But soft and sweet and dreaming
I've been singing Ben E. King's song (written in 1960) to myself a lot lately as I wander around this special place. I've been staying in Spanish Harlem for the past six weeks, and I'll be sad to leave it.
All you have to do to feel truly alive is simply step outside and join the throngs of people passing by. Soon you'll start hearing salsa music coming from someone's boom box, you'll begin to smell the street food being prepared in small sidewalk stands, you'll be greeted by friendly souls walking in the opposite direction and you'll feel the hustle and bustle of (mostly Spanish speaking) folks going in and out of the small shops and restaurants that line the streets.
I've only seen six chain stores within the many blocks of my neighborhood: Taco Bell, Burger King, Dunkin Donuts, McDonald's, Duane Reade and H&R Block. All the rest are mom and pop owned barber shops, convenience stores, nail and hair salons, Latin restaurants, flower stands, bakeries, laundromats, small groceries, etc. Old brownstones line some of the streets, and people sit on their front stoops and visit with one another. There are a couple schools nearby, and you can hear the kids outside laughing and playing. You can see older guys with dominos, seated around small folding tables... also laughing and playing.
It's loud here. It's colorful, vibrant, crowded and busy. Gentrification is happening in many areas of Harlem, but from what I understand that's mostly on the west side. A few coffee shops and newer restaurants dot the neighborhood I'm in, but they are few and far between.
"El Barrio," as it's widely called by longtime residents, is the Latino cultural heart of New York City. It's been the home to many different waves of immigrants over the years, including Jews from Eastern Europe, laborers from Ireland and a large number of Italians. In the early part of the 20th century there was a huge influx of Puerto Ricans as they were granted US citizenship.
Despite neglected buildings, poverty and overcrowding, homelessness and drug use, the residents of Spanish Harlem have managed to build strong mutual-aid networks, churches, schools, an art museum and other neighborhood institutions. These have helped the area survive and remain culturally dynamic.
As I've wandered around, I've made a point of greeting people, and in some cases asking if I can take their picture. Besides the Puerto Rican families, there are Dominicans, Mexicans and a growing Chinese and African population.
I'll miss the friendliness of the people and the liveliness of the place. These quick portraits are a tiny love letter from me to Spanish Harlem.
